Framboisier

Raspberries. An entremet made with a beautiful light creamy vanilla mousse and planted are the most sweetest robust French raspberries. The base is what we call a Joconde, for us anglo-saxons this is pistachio sponge made with almond meal, very moist, doesn’t dry out because we soak it in syrup. You can see below how a large production of these cakes are made.

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Moka

IMG_3519 Moka – we know it as a coffee + chocolate hot drink. But this Moka is something else. It’s pure coffee cream indulgence. Three coffee sponge layers are soaked in coffee syrup and in between the layers, couche, lay rum-raisins, finely chopped walnuts and coffee butter cream. If you have a sweet tooth and you’re a coffee lover, this one’s for you.

My grade for this cake was: 13/20. But, to me it tastes 18/20! Minus two points for the calories it gives.

The piping designs you see on the Moka is what we are required to do. Now, it’s not for everybody, but the idea is for students to have the opportunity to practice their piping techniques – Chef’s grade represents the finishing of the cake, for example he looks at the piping skill. We only know how our cakes taste when we bring it home.

I remember growing up in Sydney, Moka was really a cake I associated with grown-ups. And the only place I would see a Moka on display was in a shop selling a variety of Austrian and Hungarian tortas, or when it was served at family friend parties – being that my parents are Hungarian this meant I endured many grown-up parties and many grown-up tortas, one including the Moka. This was a disappointment for an Aussie kid like me because all I wanted was a good old fashioned chocolate cake (and without liqueured cherries inside!)

Today, I am a grown-up and I eat Moka tortas. However rich with butter cream, I won’t say no to a slice as long as it’s with coffee at breakfast. As my gorgeous friend said, –  let’s call her, Ca Va Bien –  “I think this is going to be my breakfast Monday morning”, and we’re only Friday! And so it will be mine too! (as well as all the weekend).

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It’s now Friday night, and mon cheri has made pizza (which he’s now frying in a pan because our little oven/microwave doesn’t cook the bottom of the pizza dough), and he’s just served me wine. I think this is a message for me to close my laptop, turn off my iPhone and flip the cover over my iPad. I’ll leave today’s work with plenty of photos, and I’ll revise tomorrow.

Bon appetit et bon weekend!

Miss Pirisi

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THE END (for now).

Into the Black Forest

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Foret Noire is a Black Forest cake. This particular recipe was more mousse than sponge. Growing up in a Hungarian household Black Forests made a regular appearance – must be that Austro-Hungarian thing – and I don’t remember it being so moussy. This recipe I found very endulgent, delicious and lighter than any Black Forest I’ve ever had. My classmates thought the same and were not shy about going for seconds and thirds. However, there were a few comments on the level of alcohol content of the cherries. Yes, the level! Griottine cherries (a type of French cherry) are soaked in Kirsch or some other high alcohol liquor. Then, we soak 3 layers of sponge with what’s called the ‘Soaking’, which is made up of Syrup 1260 (sugar+water) and Kirsch. As much as I love a good alcohol in cakes to give it that pinch of X-factor, I have to say that it’s possible to fail a breathalyzer test if you over consume this Black Forest. But, I love it. It’s just something to think about when selling this one to customers who will serve it up to granny and grandkids.

The chocolate sponge is a Genoise, a type of French sponge cake, then cut into 3 parts.

Chocolate chantilly, that is, chocolate whipped cream, for one layer and for another layer we use a vanilla whipped cream.

Then, for the chocolate shavings. We spread melted choclate couverture over an iron tray, let it set and then with a metal scraper we push the chocolate to create what we call, cigarettes. The round tube shaped flakes of chocolate.

Have a look at the photos below.

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Until the next entremet.

Miss Pirisi.

Mogador

IMG_3340 Mogador, this is what I call a midnight craving. A liqueured chocolate sponge layered over with chocolate mousse and raspberry confiture. Then, a fine decoration of fresh raspberries, more chocolate, and teeny-tiny leaves of gold to pamper a moment of luxe.

We know of the Mogador at Dalloyau and this is pretty much it because our Chef worked for Dalloyau. And, we’ve also heard the name Mogador attached to Pierre Hermes creations of passionfruit cake and the famous macarons. Outside of the world of patisserie, we have the Mogador Theatre in Paris. Last but not least, the origin of Mogador is in Morocco.

There are 7 parts to this recipe to prepare. No.8 is just placing the raspberries on top for decoration.

1.Chocolate Genoise (a sponge cake)
2. Raspberry Soaking Syrup
3. Raspberry Jam with Seeds
4. Chocolate Whipped Cream
5. Butter cream
6. Raspberry Glaze
7. Chocolate sheets (Chef did this)
8. Fresh raspberries

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Until the next entremet.

Miss Pirisi.

Roulade Griottines

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What you see here are many spirals of sponge coated with raspberry jam. What you don’t see is the Vanilla Bavarois, an indulgent mix of creme anglaise and whipped cream. And within the layer of this indulgence is Griottines, a fancy name for liqueured-up cherries.

There are 5 parts to this recipe. We made the following:

1. Biscuit Rolls
2. Vanilla Bavarois
3. Biscuit a la cuiller
4. Griottine Soaking
5. The clear (yellowish) glaze

The sponge which is layered with raspberry jam is the first thing we made in this recipe. To make the sponge, ‘Biscuit Roll’, we creamed ingredients together (in a KitchenAid) and then spread the creamed mixture out onto a large baking tray. The baking tray was prepared with baking paper which was stuck down with butter (in a X). When baked the result was a thin soft sponge. The ingredients are nothing more than egg yolks, egg whites, granulated sugar, flour and butter. Refer to the photos directly below.

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On the sponge sheet we layered raspberry jam but very thinly. Then we pressed tightly with our hands making a firm roll. To ensure the roll was tight we used the aid of a rack as shown below. We then refrigerated the roll overnight so that for the next day it’s well firm for cutting into slices.

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The next day we unwrapped the roll from the baking paper and cut it up into slices. The slices resembling spirals were squished and squashed into the cake tin leaving minimum or no gaps. If there were gaps between the spirals, they were filled in with extra sponge.

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Vanilla Bavarois, is basically two recipes added together. A recipe of creme anglais which is added to whipped cream. As for the Vanilla Bavarois, it seems I was so involved in the making of it that I forgot to take pictures. So, I will follow on with a basic explanation: We added dollops of Vanilla Bavarois but only half way up the cake tin. We smoothed this out with a spatula. Then, added griottines (liquered-up cherries) onto the cream. Over the griottines, we then added more dollops of Vanilla Bavarois but left enough space to place the the Biscuit a la cuiller. So, basically the Vanilla Bavarois is added in two parts. I forgot to take a picture of this. Ops.

Biscuit a la cuiller, is a soft biscuit, a similar diameter as the above cake tin. It’s made of egg yolks, granulated sugar, egg whites and flour. Then the mixture is piped in a spiral/escargot shape. It’s then baked. And what you have is soft biscuit which will act as the base of this cake. Refer to photos below. The biscuit is then plunged into Griottine syrup. This is made up of Syrup 1260, and Cherry griottine juice. We plunged the Biscuit a la cuiller into the syrup before placing it onto our cake. We then put a round paper disc over the top. Then froze the cake. The next day we turned it upside down. And voila! Roulade Griottines. Oh, one more touch. We glazed before sending it off to the in-house Ferrandi restaurant.

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Until the next Entremet. A bientot.

Miss Pirisi

Feuille d’automne

IMG_4057In English, Leaves of Autumn. It’s made of chocolate mouse and layers of meringue layered over with leaves of dark chocolate.

2 entremets D 20cm

Almond Meringue (disc)
Egg whites, 80g
Granulated sugar, 80g
Almond powder, 20g
Icing sugar, 80g

Beat the egg whites with the first part of sugar
Add the icing sugar sifted with the almond powder
Pipe in spiral
Bake at 90C

French Meringue (disc)
Egg whites, 80g
Granulated sugar, 80g
Icing sugar, 80g

Beat the white with sugar added 3 times
Add the icing sugar and pipe in a spiral

Bake at 90C

Chocolate Mouse
Dark chocolate 64%, 400g
Butter, 170g
Liquid heavy cream, 50g
Egg yolks, 70g
Egg whites, 240g
Sugar, 80g

Melt the chocolate with the butter and the liquid cream
Add the yolks
Beat the whites with the sugar
Mix the egg whites and chocolate at 35C

Covering
Chocolate butter cream, 300g
or white butter cream, 250g
Cocoa paste, 65g
Chocolate sheets finished, 3 sheets (on trays)
Icing sugar, 50 g

Assemble with rings
The white meringue
The chocolate mousse
An almond meringue
Cover with chocolate butter cream
Finish with the chocolate leaves
Sprinkle with icing sugar