Let’s not get carried away here. Just because it’s my second post on cupcakes does not mean I’m getting into the cupcake business. I’m a French trained pâtissière afterall.
As I’m not a fan of cupcakes I thought this will be a sort of project for me, that is, to create something I’d want to eat as a NON CUPCAKE FAN.
I’m a fan of Friands like so many Australians. Egg whites fluffed-up (or not) and mixed in with dry ingredients including almonds and icing sugar to give a moist and crumbly texture. However, I do realise because of the almonds Friands are heavier than a French genoise sponge so I made them in mini-size. I added pears and their juice giving a subtle flavour and ensuring the mini-cakes stay moist (avoid drying out) over a longer period of time.
La Chantilly (whipped cream + sugar) has a split personality of natural and pastel green. The pastel is to say there’s a little Poire Williams alcohol. The French like to add alcohols to their patisserie depending on the traditions and regions of the particular patisserie in question. When it’s right it can be a wonderful ‘exhausteur de goût’ lifting the ingredients to their potential.
Bon, voila. There you have it.
Ciao et à tout à l’heure!
Miss Pirisi de Sydney – Pâtissière at her new digs in Versailles, Côté Saint Louis.
I don’t make cupcakes. It’s not my thing. I didn’t pay the BIG EUROS at the prestigious ecole de Ferrandi (Paris) to make cupcakes.
So what do I find myself making this weekend….
I can’t lie I’m drawn in by the wave of patissiers who are challenging the cliché anglo-saxon dry sponge and sugar overload mini cake to make something … well…. more French.
So when I was asked to make “des cupcakes ou comme des cupcakes” I could go only one way and that’s the French way. Voila. Cupcakes Frenchie-fied… I think.
Frenchie-fied because I’m not looking for classic anglo-saxon sponge recipes which traditionally have a bad wrap for being dry and heavy. I’m looking for French recipes. The French pay very close attention to textures usually with the intention to create a dessert that is “légère” and that brings about EMOTION. [Emotion, it’s meaning in French patisserie = a balance of flavours, textures and esthetiques usually with the intention of igniting memories of special places and/or special someones]. A French Genoise sponge can bring about such emotion. Made up of egg whites that are whipped into happy fluffiness and once baked the sponge is “imbiber”, that is soaked in a syrup, either natural or infused with juices, purees or milk. You have something light in the mouth yet moist and intense in flavour. Here, miss pirisi collection of cupcakes a la francaise are made with the genoise idea however this particular recipe the French call a “biscuit”, in other words, sponge. This biscuit type genoise is more Mediterranean as I’ve included olive oil, sour cream and juice of limes, lemons and their zests. We stay light in texture, moist with a lovely fresh flavour. I’m a gourmande. I think food can be sexy. I like sex appeal to my desserts. I want to see a dessert and I want it to speak to me “have me right now”, or the look on a man when he really wants you! or a gorgeous Giorgio Armani hot-red lipstick, a gorgeous pair of black heels! Shall I continue???La chantilly is whipped up with mascarpone and cassonade sugar. I added Bourbon vanilla grains with Vanilla essence. The vanilla now becomes slightly caramel in flavour due to the cassonade and essence. The round flavours need a pick-me-up so lime zests are perfect for that contrast. The round TUILE is simply sugar caramelised.
For more MadCharlotte eye-candy come over to http://www.madcharlotte.fr !
Do you see him, Pussy in Boots Aladdin? After I took these photos I noticed something, that the randomly placed gold foil used to decorate mes petits gateaux formed into somewhat … characters. One looking like a rabbit and the other a morphosis of two characters, Aladdin and Pussy in Boots, making … what I seem to see is… Puss in Boots Aladdin running. Am I crazy? Do you see it too?
Let’s leave crazy alone for now and rather talk about these delicious glossy chocolate sphere like petits gateaux faits par Miss Pirisi: Mousse parfait au chocolat noir with a subtle swirl of banana throughout this very air like mousse, AND an insert of pure ripe banana. A layer of goey zesty caramel over a chocolate sablé gives a dimension of texture and saveur that is really unforgettable.
Now, I know people can be funny about bananas. I am funny about bananas. If I see just a teeny-weency speck of brown, ‘rotting’ I call it, on my banana I can’t eat it! The idea of a brown banana grosses (?? spelling) me out more. However, once mangled and mashed into banana cake where it’s camouflaged that’s okay. So I knew a banana saveur may not be everyone’s cup of tea. BUT on tasting, me and my mashed banana victims were very convinced this is a winner. Yes!!! With a dark mousse chocolate and caramel it’s basically a Banoffee… and who doesn’t like Banoffee!
Loving this cross-section (below). What I see with my eyes I hope to capture on photo and that’s not always easy when you’re guessing your way around a semi-professional camera. So I am very pleased I got what I saw.
So do you see him, Puss in Boots Aladdin? He’s running. And the Rabbit?
Nu, is the French word for naked. And it’s exactly how I wanted to see my beauties, nu.
Nu is going a la naturale. In general, 90 something % of the time macaron shells have the same flavour regardless of what colour they are. Time to time we add cacao powder for chocolate shells or grounded pistachios for pistachio shells but generally it’s just the colour that changes with the same recipe. So I had a thought, if I remove the colouring from the shells – I’m left only with the filling of ganache, confiture or cremeaux – do the macarons remain as appealing to eat?.
I guess after all a macaron is not a woman…. mmmh… food for thought.
Nu macarons made by miss pirisi. Who else.
“Ginger is a powerful aphrodisiac” so ancient medicine tells us. Oh la la..!!!
When creating a dessert for VALENTINE’S DAY I’m looking for something that excites and stimulates the senses and what better liaison than of GINGER (GINGEMBRE) and DARK CHOCOLATE. Two ingredients well known for their feel-good benefits.
LOVE HEART dark chocolate and ginger infused mousse-ganache sits over a crunchy biscuit made of hazelnuts, speculos (cinnamon) and gianduja milk chocolate. Perfect if you desire to get your teeth into someone…. ops….. something!!!Sparks of gold dust splashed over a dark chocolate cacao glaze…. Kind of like those sparks you get from that special someone.
Happy Valentine’s Day xxx
P.S And even if you’re going solo this Valentine’s Day treat yourself anyway!
These days my morning coffee is champeroned with either a croissant or another coffee. I live in France.
I don’t remember the last time I ate a typically Australian breakfast which can mean eating a food pyramid (proteins, carbs, vitamins, etc). In Sydney when there was no time to conquer pyramids I was on the “go, go”, in and out with a coffee in one hand and an energy booster of some kind like a chocolate brownie in the other.
I’ve been so caught up in learning the complicated art of French pastry with all its compositions, textures and gestures that I’ve become a pastry snob and neglected what I know to be “home”, good old fashioned Australian baking.
So here it is…. good old fashioned Australian brownies “Frenchified” (sorry… can’t help it).
Prunes grown in the Agen region of France have been soaking for about a week in Frances best, Cognac. Dark and milk chocolate have been melted into brown sugar (I love it for its caramel flavour) and Normandy butter (where the happiest cows live). The Cognac not absorbed by the prunes goes in the mixture anyway. This chocolate brownie is at its ultimate gooeyness!!! A dusting of 100% cacao just to keep some level of composure. There are no words….Un cafe allongee et un brownie slvp!
Grafitti entremet cheesecake by miss pirisi. The interior is a mousse lime cheesecake (not baked) with a centre of red fruits and lemon sponge. I’m not at all a fan of adding raw eggs or egg yolks to mousse cakes. If I do add eggs or egg yolks – like I learnt at Ferrandi – I cook the eggs using a Pate a Bombe method where by hot syrup is poured over the eggs during their mixing stage. In theory the eggs give hold to an entremet (due to their fat content and protein binding capacity) but for patissiers it’s the outcome of a frothy moussy air-like mixture that makes this non-baked cheesecake light, fluffy yet strong on the savours. There are two glazes here, a red glaze splashed over white. Unfortunately no cross-section here, it went straight to the client.