Piles of apricots stacked so high it’s hard not to acknowledge that we may just be in apricot season in France (as I write we’re in June 2014). For 3,45 euros a kilo I’m going to make something with apricots. It can’t be baked though, it’s too bloody hot now that we’re coming into summer in France.
Claire Heitzler’s recipe of Coco’oning Abricot is very much what I had in mind when I picked up my 3 kilos of apricots. I may have overestimated the recipe quantity without the recipe book in hand.
In her book The Best of Claire Heiztler where we find this recipe she says in French: “The coconut is the only pure white ingredient that we work with in patisserie. This entremet* is soft like a pillow, hidden in the heart of this entremet are slightly acidic apricots that brings a perk and is balanced with coconut comfort”.
There are no photos of the interior in The Best of Claire Heiztler’s so I can only guess that it resembles this. There are adjustments I need to make if I’m to do this entremet again. Claire’s recipe is designed for 18cm (coconut cream) and 16cm (apricot confit & marmalade) ring sizes. My ring sizes are for les petits gateaux of 8cm (coconut cream). Since I don’t have 6cm rings, I had to use what I have and that is 7cm (apricot confit & marmalade). The problem with the 7cm is that it doesn’t allow for a thick enough wall (between an 8cm & 7cm ring) that is the white coconut cream and as a result the entremet collapses. The layers of apricot confit and apricot marmelade are perhaps a little too thick. The marmalade being on the bottom as it’s not held up by gelatin it collapses, so I would next time put the confit layer on the bottom and marmalade on top. Does that make sense?
I recommend the book, The best of Claire Heitzler because it’s very step by step and you’re also introduced to new ingredients, for example I’ve never used dextrose, agar-agar and acide ascorbique in patisserie before, that was a first.
This entremet is definitely a winner in terms of flavour and texture combinations. Apricots have to be very much in season otherwise the coconut flavour will over power.
*entremet: entre – met = in its time this cake was designed to be eaten between meals therefore it had to be light, to be light it is made up of mousse textures (meringue, chantilly, creme anglaise, creme patissiere, fruits).